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Spring Flowers, Daffodils,
Early Spring, Massachusetts
Photographic Print
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Asparagus Pickers,
13th Century
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From the Garden II
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Kruse-Kolk, Alie
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Asparagus Officinalis
French: Asperge
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Asparagus Stalk, Asparagus Officinalis
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Wexler, Jerome
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Asperges
Elizabeth Espin
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Pile of White Asparagus, Clos
des Iles, Le Brusc, Cote d'Azur,
Var, France
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Karlsson, Per
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A Bunch of Asparagus, 1880,
Formerly in the Collection of Painter Max Liebermann
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Manet, Édouard
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La Belle Cuisine
Asparagus - The Royal Vegetable
by Michele Gerhard, Bad Homburg, Germany 1995
Just imagine that we are now in the midst of the dead of winter. The sky
is drab
and gloomy, cheerless, like a huge gray umbrella which has begun
to
leak. The festive
atmosphere of Christmas has passed, the gaiety of the tiny, twinkling lights
has dimmed, the candles have been snuffed. The revelry of welcoming the New Year has been replaced by
the sobriety of cold,
harsh reality: bills to be paid, snow to be shoveled, blizzards and
ice storms
to be braved. Winter, without the frills.
I haven’t seen the sky for at least
ten days now. Actually, I can’t remember the last sunny day we had. At the
moment, no snow, just drab, uninviting slush. The harmonious spirit of the Holiday Season has
been superseded by
a humorless
animosity. My depression deepens like a sinking tomb. The
sky outside
my window at
4:30 p.m. is as dark as the devil’s soul.
Only one thing will brighten this despondency, lighten this lingering sense
of
melancholy. I must constantly remind myself that spring will surely
come if only I
persevere. My mind is filled with fantasies about the very
first signs
that are so eagerly
anticipated by everyone around me at this
time of year,
the only antidote when we feel we
are being engulfed by
the bleakness of winter. I imagine the sight of the first tiny
purple crocus
and the smile it’s
sure to bring. This will be followed by primroses and a
profusion of pansies. And then, one glorious morning, I will awaken to
find that sunlight
is streaming through my bedroom window. I’ll jump
out of bed, look out, and be greeted
by the most cheerful sight in all
the world to me - dazzling yellow daffodils in full
bloom. Spring!
And that leads, of course, to visions of fresh, creamy
white asparagus.
Soon it will be Spargelzeit - asparagus season! Short, to be sure, but this
very
brevity enhances the anticipation of its arrival.
For me, as well as for at least several million Germans, nothing heralds
the
fact
that spring has, indeed, arrived quite as dramatically or delicious-
ly as
fresh asparagus.
I certainly don’t mean to imply that Germany has
a monopoly on asparagus. However, there
is a certain asparagus mania
that runs rampant
in Germany from late April until June 24th the feast of
St. John the Baptist, (traditionally the end of the season) that is totally
un- equaled in my experience. Actually, the asparagus itself is unequaled in
my
experience. No wonder it was so eagerly devoured by Julius Caesar
and adored by Mme de
Pompadour!
The history of asparagus can be traced back to the days of the Roman Empire. The
oldest existing description was written by Marcus Porcius
Cato, Rome’s first
agricultural writer. During the years 175 - 150 B.C.
he devoted his writings primarily to
the subject of asparagus. Apparently
this "königliche Gemüse", or
"royal vegetable", as the Germans fondly
refer to the expensive delicacy, was
unknown to the ancient Egyptians
and Chinese. If they were familiar with it, they have
left no written evi-
dence to that effect. Historically speaking, we lose track of the
cultiva-
tion
of asparagus until around 1100 A.D. when it is referred to not as
a delicacy,
but as a medicinal herb. It appears that its importance as a
culinary bonne bouche
was temporarily sidetracked, for during the
period from circa 1100 A.D.
until the mid-16th
century, asparagus
was cultivated only in convent or curative herb gardens.
The first documented reference to asparagus cultivation in Germany
dates
from
1565. The "Catalogue of Herbs and Trees in the Princely
Pleasure Garden" in
Stuttgart refers to this "delightful fare for lovers
of food". It
seems that
Duke Christoph von Württemberg became aware
that asparagus was relished as an
exceptionally savory tidbit in many of
Europe’s most discriminating courts, and thus
ordered it to be planted
in his garden. It remained a luxury available only to the
nobility until the
mid-19th century. I
for one am most grateful that the
"royal vegetable",
although still considered somewhat expensive, is now widely
available
to the common folk.
My first encounter with asparagus at age 3 was
nothing if not traumatic!
I am amazed
that I
can even tolerate the taste now. I distinctly remember
refusing to eat it, to the total
dismay of my mother, one of the world’s
foremost asparagus fanatics. Not only did she
demand that I eat it, but
insisted that I chew each bite 30 times before swallowing! I
reluctantly
submitted to her will under
threat of dire punishment. Apparently what
they
say about the seductive powers of this legendary vegetable is true,
for today I find it
quite irresistible. How delightfully would I chew every
morsel until it literally melts in my
mouth.
As much as I love asparagus, I must admit it came as a shock to me to
find
asparagus season such a MAJOR EVENT in Germany. Restaurants supplement their
regular menu with a special asparagus menu, and I am
told there are at least 40 different
ways to serve it. There are asparagus
peeling contests and asparagus festivals. (This is so you can eat asparagus
in addition to "a brat and a beer, bitte").And, of course, there must be an
asparagus queen.
For the Trivia fans among you, Helmut Zipner, affectionately
know in
Germany as
the "Spargel-Tarzan" is listed in the "Guinness Book of
Records" as peeling a ton of asparagus in 16 hours.) There are special
seminars and
organized tours of asparagus farms and asparagus cooking
classes. With no end in sight, the asparagus tourism
business is booming,
as fans gladly travel hundreds of kilometers to feast on freshly harvested,
lovingly prepared culinary creations.
Two delightful German cities -
Schrobenhausen in Upper Bavaria and
Schwetzingen in the
nearby state of Baden-Württemberg - have long
been renowned for
their asparagus
expertise. Abensberg, not far from
Schrobenhausen, is also making quite a name for itself.
As you might
expect, competition between
the areas is fierce, and I much prefer not
to get
caught in the middle of this heated controversy!
Schrobenhausen, where asparagus has been cultivated since 1912, is an idyllic,
picturesque town with a flourishing art colony, quite worthy in its
own right
of a visit.
Like so many other municipalities in Germany, from
large cities like Munich to enchanting
small villages like Michelstadt, it is
rich in history and fascinating in its allure. Schrobenhausen is proud to
have been the home of Franz von Lenbach, the most prominent
German
portrait painter of the 19th century, who painted Pope Leo XIII and Otto
von Bismarck in addition to many other celebrities of the period. The art
gallery in his
birth house
displays many of his famous and costly paintings.
Schrobenhausen’s primary
claim to fame is the one and only
European Asparagus Museum. In addition
to providing
information on the history
and cultivation of asparagus, the museum displays an amazingly
diverse
collection of porcelain, silver,
serving utensils, paintings (including an
Andy
Warhol) and recipes.
Schwetzingen was once the summer residence of Pfälzer Kurfürsten, or
electorate princes. The majestic baroque palace and adjoining gardens are definitely worth
a visit, even if you are not lured to the area by your lust
for fresh asparagus. The
palace gardens are considered to be Germany’s
largest and most beautiful from the
baroque and rococo period. In 1763,
the 7-year-old Mozart was presented in concert to the
noble society of Schwetzingen in the palace’s Rococo Theater. In honor of that visit,
the
city presents an annual Mozart Festival in September and October, with
most concerts
being presented in that very same Rococo Theater.
Schwetzingen is the self-proclaimed "most famous asparagus city in the
world". The highlight of its annual asparagus festival is the naming of the
"king" or "queen" - whoever weighs in the heaviest asparagus stalk.
The
city takes great pride in its unique monument to Spargelfrauen, the dili-
gent
women who not only toil in the fields, but also take the asparagus
to market. The bronze
memorial, shaded by lovely chestnut trees, is
situated on the
exact location of the
asparagus market of a century ago.
And, believe it or not, Master Confectioner Utz of Schwetzingen found
the local
asparagus so enchanting that he was inspired to create a delec-
table filled-chocolate
version of asparagus tips, a local specialty. He even
offers a choice of white
(asparagus-colored) or milk chocolate. No, the
chocolate is not filled with asparagus, nor
is the asparagus filled with
chocolate. The chocolate is filled with Buttertrüffel
and Himbeergeist (raspberry brandy) - it just LOOKS like asparagus. As a matter of
fact,
the special asparagus-tip form used to create these luscious chocolates
was designed
by Utz and is patented.
It appears that a large segment of the German population eats asparagus
at
least once a
day during the entire season. No doubt for many (myself
included) it would be three
times a day if it weren’t for the fact that the
going price ranges from $3.00 - $10.00
per pound (no doubt much higher
now than in 1995 when this was written), depending on the quality (class)
of the asparagus, the abundance of the current
crop, and the region in
which it is grown. Unless you are fortunate enough to have
experienced
this phenomenon, you probably doubt my word and are asking yourself
what
could
possibly be so extraordinary. After all, asparagus is asparagus,
right?
What’s all the
fuss about?
Let’s take just a moment to consider this situation. If you’ll pardon the
generalization, Germans are renowned for their practicality. They are generally considered
to be orderly, efficient, pragmatic and sensible.
They are generally known as reasonable
people. Agreed? Ja wohl! It
stands to reason, then, if they are downright fanatical about something
like fresh asparagus, there must be a good explanation. Absolutely. I will
try my best to
do it justice, but it’s one of those things that really should
be experienced to be
appreciated. If fate smiles upon you and you live
in an area where the delectable white
asparagus preferred in Germany -
or even the ivory, lavender-tipped variety - is available
freshly picked,
you will savor a tender delicacy unique in all the world.
My favorite description of a stupendous asparagus experience was written
by
Lillian Langseth-Christensen, a great lady, talented cook and author no doubt familiar to
many of you, as she was Gourmet’s longest continuous contributor, from 1957 to 1992. In
her marvelous article entitled "The
Grand Asparagus Tour", which appeared in the
April 1988 issue of
Gourmet , she writes:
"Thereupon [after eating a first course of asparagus with marinated
salmon
and realizing that she was in the presence of a very talented
chef and
asparagus specialist] the entire picture changed: Birds
began to sing in the
blooming
chestnut trees before the door, the
sun shone warmly, and, in rereading the
asparagus menu, we
knew that there would be blissful days ahead."
Should you be fortunate enough to be able to partake
of this delicacy on
the
same day it is picked, properly (simply) prepared, you’ll surely under- stand my challenge
in presenting an adequate description, worthy of this
exquisite vegetable’s many
virtues. I’ve always believed vegetables, plants, flowers
and the like to have
personalities. Asparagus strikes me first and
foremost as having a certain elusive, enigmatic quality. No doubt that
is part of its allure. It has a dainty air about it,
a fragile elegance and a
subtlety of flavor
that quite understandably generates reverence
among
its devotees.
Everyone seems to have a personal favorite where asparagus preparation
is
concerned, but it would be virtually unheard of to see a Spargelzeit
menu which did
not include some variation on the theme of asparagus
and ham, usually with
sauce Hollandaise,
accompanied by boiled new
potatoes. Salmon is also
a popular accompaniment. The menu of
the
café on the grounds of the magnificent baroque palace in Schwetzingen
is relatively
typical of the
special asparagus menus offered during the
season. It includes asparagus
Hollandaise with ham, Wiener schnitzel,
or crepes, as well as asparagus
salad and
cream of
asparagus soup. In
general, you can expect to pay
around $5.00 for a bowl of really
excel-
lent soup and from $20-$35 for an entree of a full order of asparagus
accompanied by
meat such as schnitzel
or pork loin. [Those were the
days!] Prices are higher, of course, in the
finer restaurants where the
creativity of fine chefs knows no bounds.
Spargel purists insist that it is a crime to smother the delicate flavor of
freshly harvested boiled or steamed asparagus with anything more than
a touch of unsalted
butter and possibly a squeeze of lemon juice. Well, breadcrumbs browned in butter, if you
must. Actually, I quite agree.
Especially if you can afford the very best Klasse I
Spargel. Chef Hans
Haas of
Tantris in Munich (two Michelin stars) adds
croutons, scallions, finely diced boiled ham and
hard-boiled eggs to the butter topping.
Delicious!
Asparagus and eggs have always been a gratifying combination, it seems.
One of my
favorites is a simple, elegant salad composed of steamed fresh asparagus,
boiled eggs and
a Sherry vinaigrette. To serve four amply, use
2 pounds
of asparagus and two hard-boiled
eggs, diced. The vinaigrette
consists of olive and walnut oil in a 1 to 1 ratio, and
about one-third the
amount of Sherry vinegar, depending on its potency, and salt and
pepper
to taste. Stir the eggs into the vinaigrette just before serving, top the
asparagus
with it and sprinkle with minced fresh parsley.
My introduction to German Spargel was a dish referred to by my
mother-
in-law-to-be simply as Spargelgemüse. She always insisted that the purist
method is her favorite, but somewhat cost-prohibitive since she was cooking
for a
household of twelve! I have noticed through the years that her method
is very typical, in
addition to being absolutely delicious:
First, the asparagus is trimmed (snap off tough
ends - do not cut with a knife), washed, and the tough skin pared away. Cut the spears
into bite-
size pieces; boil in lightly salted water to cover for about 5 or 6 minutes.
("Trick 17", says my mother-in-law, is to add a pinch of sugar and some fresh
lemon juice to the cooking water. She adds that every good German housewife knows this.)
Make a
white sauce using butter, flour, asparagus cooking liquid and milk, and flavor with
freshly grated nutmeg (but not too much!) Depending on her mood and who’s expected for
dinner, she might "refine" the sauce with cream and egg yolk, and possibly a
little white wine. The perfect accompaniment: boiled new potatoes, of course, purchased
very fresh at the market where the potato farmer has known for years
just exactly what variety
of potato she prefers and what size to offer her
if he doesn’t want to get an earful.
Even if meat is served with the meal,
the main dish is the Spargelgemüse, and
there are NEVER any leftovers,
no matter how many pounds of asparagus she cooks!
Recipes:
Naturally, it’s best to buy fresh asparagus directly from the
farmer, or in a farmer’s market on the day it’s picked, if possible. If this is not
possible in your area, you can tell a lot about the freshness of the vegetable by paying
close attention to the cut end: if it has started to turn brown and looks even
somewhat
shriveled, it has passed its peak. Also, beware of asparagus with
small areas of
discoloration, as this is an indication that it may have been
kept in water too long. If
that’s the case, it will have lost a good deal of its
delicate flavor. Keep the
asparagus refrigerated, wrapped in a damp cloth,
such as a kitchen towel, until you are
ready to prepare it, ideally the same day it is purchased.
Asparagus and Baby Leeks
Asparagus Clafoutis (Daniel Boulud)
Asparagus with Dill Cream and
Smoked Salmon
Asparagus and Ham Salad with
Herb Vinaigrette
Asparagus with Hollandaise Sauce
Asparagus Salad with Eggs, Tomatoes
and Avocado
Asparagus Salad with Pineapple
Asparagus with Tarragon Sauce
Asparagus Three Ways (Alain Ducasse)
Kaiserspargel, Mimi Sheraton’s
Ragout of Lobster and Green Asparagus
Sesame-Roasted Asparagus
Spargelcremesuppe
(Cream of Asparagus Soup)
A Variety of Sauces
Basil Sauce
Herb Cream
Wild Mushroom Sauce
Orange Sauce with Rosemary
Curry Yogurt Sauce
Warm Asparagus Salad with Crawfish
(Johann Lafer)
Baden Asparagus Route
European Asparagus Museum
Schwetzingen Palace and Gardens
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