Asparagus

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Asparagus - The Royal Vegetable

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is an act of integrity, and faith."

Mimi Sheraton's Kaiserspargel

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“The Germans are crazy about asparagus,
which shows their good sense.”
~ Jane Grigson, Book of European Cookery

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Bunch of Asparagus

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A Bunch of Asparagus, 1880,
Formerly in the Collection of Painter Max Liebermann
Giclee Print
Manet, Édouard
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La Belle Cuisine

If you have room in your files for only one asparagus
recipe, please, let this be the one!

Kaiserspargel (Imperial Asparagus)


German Cookbook:
A Complete Guide to
Mastering Authentic German Cooking
by Mimi Sheraton, 1972, Random House

“This delectable vegetable [asparagus] is recognized as one of the most welcome signs of spring in just about every country in the Western world, and Germany
is no exception. The tender, mildly flavored ivory asparagus of Schwetzingen
are the most highly prized in that country. And, along with rose-pink salmon,
new potatoes, and the first tiny strawberries, herald the arrival of Fruehling
am Rhein – spring on the Rhine, usually the first place it presents itself in
Germany. The Germans like asparagus most of all with ham, but they often
eat it with smoked salmon, or with [a variety] of toppings…
To prepare asparagus, snap off rough ends with your fingers; do not cut with a
knife. Scale off any tough skin that remains near the bottom with a sharp, thin
paring knife. Wash asparagus well under running cold water. The tough ends
}and skins can be used to make a soup stock.
Asparagus may be steamed or boiled in bundles, on a rack, or, if you go in for
such specialized equipment, in an asparagus steamer. The simplest method is
to cook them in a large, deep skillet that has a tight-fitting cover. Place the
washed, trimmed asparagus in boiling water to which you add a little salt
and, for a real German touch, a pinch of sugar as well. Cook rapidly just 5
or 6 minutes. They should retain their bright green color and be slightly firm
to the teeth, though tender when pierced with a sharp-pointed knife. Remove
from water immediately with slotted pancake turner or tongs and drain
[well!] before adding sauce.”

4 generous servings

2 pounds asparagus, cooked as
described above
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
3/4 cup asparagus stock
3/4 cup Rhine wine
2 egg yolks* beaten into
1/4 cup sweet cream
Salt and sugar to taste

* Egg Safety Information

Drain asparagus well and keep warm on heated covered platter. Do not
leave asparagus in cooking water while you prepare sauce.
Heat butter in a saucepan and when it is hot and bubbling, stir in flour.
Stir until flour just begins to take on color, about 4 minutes. Add the
asparagus stock and beat with a wire whisk or wooden spoon, over
low heat, until sauce is smooth and thick. Simmer 5 minutes, then stir
in the wine and mix until smoothly blended. Bring the sauce to a boil
once, then remove from heat. Add a little hot sauce to the egg-yolk-
cream mixture, then turn that back slowly into the rest of the sauce.
Stir and heat if necessary, but do not boil. Flavor with salt and sugar
as needed and serve over asparagus.
 

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