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Georgene's Fluffy Rolls

"The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water,
is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight..."
- M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

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Georgene's Fluffy Rolls


Saveur Cooks Authentic American
 by the Editors of Saveur, 1998, Chronicle Books

Makes about 2 1/2 dozen

"Georgene Hall of Memphis, Tennessee, perfected these rolls half a century
ago. Although cornmeal may seem more emblematic of Southern baking,
fine white wheat flour has been used for breakfast breads and other rolls
in the region since Colonial times - probably on the model of an old
English roll called the manchet."

1 1/4 cups milk
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon salt
One 7-gram packet active dry yeast
2 eggs, lightly beaten
4 cups flour
3/4 cup melted butter

1. Combine milk, shortening, sugar, and salt in a saucepan and cook,
stirring constantly, over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Remove
from heat; set aside and allow to cool.
2. Mix yeast with 1/4 cup lukewarm water in a large bowl; set aside until
yeast dissolves and little bubbles begin to appear on the surface, about
10 minutes.
3. Pour cooled milk mixture into yeast. Stir in eggs and gradually add flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until dough is too stiff to stir, then use your hands to knead in the flour (dough will be sticky, so grease your hands
with a little butter). Brush a small amount of butter on the inside of a
large bowl and on one side of a sheet of waxed paper. Place dough in
bowl, cover with buttered waxed paper, and lay a clean damp dish
towel on top. Set aside to rise until doubled, at least three hours.
4. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead until elastic, then
roll out to 1/2 -inch thickness. Cut dough with a 3-inch biscuit cutter,
dip each round into melted butter, and fold in half. Line up, round
edges up, sides touching, in a baking pan. Cover with buttered waxed
paper and a towel, and set aside to rise, at least 2 1/2 hours.
5. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes.
Rolls are best served warm.

" 'I was raised in part by Georgene Hall, our family cook,' says Memphis writer
Mary Ann Eagle. 'I spent countless hours at her side, watching her pluck, cut
up and fry home-raised chickens, clean turnip greens fresh from the garden,
shuck corn for buttery corn puddings, knead dough for fluffy rolls. She'd let
me dip sliced tomatoes in cornmeal before she slid them into a skillet of bub-
bling bacon fat. And as I sat at the kitchen table, dunking my corn bread into
thick buttermilk, we'd talk of the world. I was formed by food like this and by
the people who cook it.' "

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"[Breadmaking is] one of those almost hypnotic businesses, like a dance from
some ancient ceremony. It leaves you filled with one of the world's sweetest smells...there is no chiropractic treatment, no Yoga exercise, no hour of
meditation in a music-throbbing chapel. that will leave you emptier of bad
thoughts than this homely ceremony of making bread."
~ M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating