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Marcella Hazan's
Grilled Fish, Romagna Style

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La Belle Cuisine

Grilled Fish, Romagna Style


Essentials of
Classic Italian Cooking
by Marcella Hazan, 1992, Borzoi/Alfred A. Knopf

“Long before my native region of Romagna, on the northern Adriatic shore,
became known for its string of beach towns and their all-night discos, it
was famous for its fish. Romagna’s fishermen are unsurpassed in the art
of grilling. Their secret, aside from the freshness of their catch, is to steep
the fish in a marinade of lemon juice, salt, pepper, rosemary, and bread
crumbs for an hour or more before broiling it. It’s a method that works
well with all fish, sweetening its natural sea flavor and keeping the flesh
from drying out over the fire.”

For 4 or more servings

2 1/2 to 3 pounds whole fish, gutted and
scaled, or fish steaks
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
A small sprig of fresh rosemary, or
1/2 teaspoon dried leaves, chopped very fine
1/3 cup fine, dry, unflavored bread crumbs
Optional: a charcoal or wood-burning grill
Optional: a small branch of fresh bay leaves or
several dried leaves

1. Wash the fish or the fish steaks in cold water, then pat thoroughly
dry with paper towels.
2. Sprinkle the fish liberally with salt and pepper on both sides, put it
on a large platter, and add the olive oil, lemon juice, and rosemary.
Turn the fish several times to coat it well. Add the bread crumbs,
turning the fish once or twice again until it has an even coating of oil-
soaked bread crumbs. Marinate for 1 or 2 hours at room temperature,
turning and basting the fish from time to time.
3. If using charcoal or wood, light the charcoal in time for it to form
white ash before cooking, or the wood long enough in advance to
reduce it to hot embers. If using an indoor gas or electric grill,
preheat it at least 15 minutes before you are ready to cook.
4. Place the fish 4 to 5 inches from the source of heat. Do not discard
its marinade. If cooking on charcoal or with wood, throw the bay
leaves into the fire, otherwise omit. Grill on both sides until done,
turning the fish once. Depending on the thickness of the fish steaks
or the size of the whole fish, it may take between 5 and 15 minutes.
While cooking, baste the top with the marinade. Serve piping hot
from the grill.

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