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The Dark Side of Nick Malgieri
A Trio of Cakes from the Author of “Chocolate
Chocolatier December 1998

Recipes from “Chocolate’ (HarperCollins, New York, 1998),
© 1998 by Nick Malgieri.
All rights reserved. Used with permission.

Chocolatier - One Year Subscription 

By Mary Goodbody

“In his [then] latest book, Nick Malgieri reminisces fondly about the first white chocolate he tasted when he was five or six years old, about breaking apart a milk chocolate Hershey bar, square by square, when he spent time with his grandfather
on Saturday afternoons, and about the chocolate pastry cream that filled his grandmother’s pizza di crema. He catalogs his chocolate culinary training both
here and abroad and heaps deserved and lavish praise on his esteemed mentor
Albert Kumin, and his later inspiration, Robert Linxe. All this to explain why he decided to write ‘Chocolate’, a comprehensive collection of chocolate recipes…
But when he comes right down to it, Malgieri wrote this book for essentially one reason: He loves chocolate as much as anyone on the planet.
The difference between Malgieri and most other chocolate lovers is that he has devoted his career to the culinary arts and has focused his dedication and skill
so that today he knows more about cooking and baking with chocolate than
most of us…
For everyone who likes chocolate, Malgieri’s labors surely will be appreciated.
For the more fanatic chocolate lover, the book no doubt will quickly become a
dog-eared kitchen and armchair companion.
…we selected the Chocolate Raspberry Bavarian Cake, which is a rich, sensuous creation made with chocolate génoise, semisweet chocolate filling and raspberry Bavarian cream, topped with whipped cream and decorated with chocolate
shavings and fresh raspberries. Malgieri traces the evolution of this cake to the
days when he worked at the BoardRoom Club in New York, where at the end of
the day he frequently had pints of fresh raspberries left over. ‘I used them up by
making purees, from which I often made Bavarian cream. I also always had a
chocolate sponge cake on hand and so made a cake similar to this one.’
The light raspberry Bavarian cream is a perfect foil to the moist génoise layers
and thin layers of chocolate filling. Serve this for a very special occasion –
especially since it can be made entirely in advance and just finished off on
the day you’ll serve it.
Malgieri advises anyone attempting this cake to plan at least three and
preferably four days ahead. He suggests making the cake and raspberry
syrup on day one, the chocolate filling and raspberry Bavarian on day
two, assembling the cake on day three, and serving it on day four…”

 

Chocolate Raspberry Bavarian Cake

Makes one 10-inch cake, about 12 servings

Chocolate génoise:
1/3 cup cake flour
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup unsweetened alkalized
cocoa powder
3 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
Pinch of salt

Raspberry syrup:
1/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
1/4 cup raspberry liqueur

Chocolate filling:
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
4 ounces semisweet chocolate,
cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter

Raspberry Bavarian:
Two 10-ounce packages frozen raspberries
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup raspberry liqueur
1 1/2 envelopes unflavored gelatin powder
2 cups heavy whipping cream

Finishing:
1 cup heavy whipping cream
Chocolate shavings
One 1/2-pint basket raspberries
Confectioners’ sugar

One 10-inch springform pan

1. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch round cake pan. Line the bottom of the
pan with a round of parchment or waxed paper.
2. Sift together the cake flour, cornstarch and cocoa through a fine-meshed strainer over a piece of waxed paper to break up any small lumps in the
cocoa. Set the sifted ingredients aside.
3. Whisk together the eggs, yolks, sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and continue whisking gently until the mixture is lukewarm, about 100 degrees F. This should take only a minute or two.
4. Whip with the electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is cooled
and increased in volume, about 3 to 4 minutes.
5. Remove bowl from mixer and sift in dry ingredients, in three additions, gently folding each third in with a rubber spatula. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread the top even with a spatula.
6. Bake the layer about 30 minutes, until it is well risen and the center is
firm to the touch.

7. If necessary, loosen the layer from the side of the pan with a small knife
or spatula and invert the cake onto a rack. Place another rack on the cake
and invert again. Remove the top rack, so that the layer cools right side
up, still on the paper.

8. For the syrup, combine the sugar and water, bring to a boil and cool.
Stir in the liqueur.
9. For the chocolate filling, bring the cream to a boil. Remove from the
heat, add the chocolate, and allow to stand 2 minutes. Whisk in butter
until smooth and cool.
10. To make the Bavarian, combine the raspberries and sugar in a sauce-
pan. Bring to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Use a food mill or a fine
sieve to purée and strain away seeds. Cool. Combine the liqueur and
gelatin in a small, heatproof bowl and soak 5 minutes. Place bowl over
simmering water to make liquid again, then whisk into cooled purée.
Whip cream and fold it in.
11. Slice génoise into two layers and place one in the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan. Moisten with half the syrup. Whip cooled chocolate filling
to lighten and spread half of it over cake layer; pour on half the Bavarian.
Repeat with remaining cake layer, syrup, chocolate filling and Bavarian.
Chill to set.
12. To unmold, run a small knife between dessert and mold and lift off
side of pan. Whip the cream and spread over sides of dessert. Press
some of the chocolate shavings into cream. Arrange raspberries on
top in two concentric circles around the top rim, then sprinkle center
with shavings and confectioners’ sugar.


Featured Archive Recipes:
Nick Malgieri's Vermont Farmhouse Devil's Food Cake
Fran
çois Payard's Chocolate-Raspberry Cake
Chocolate Raspberry Dobostorte
Chocolate Raspberry Torte
English Chocolate Trifle with Apricots and Raspberries

 

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