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Veal Chops Stuffed with Fontina and Porcini

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious
and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare
them well and serve them with ceremony.”
~ Fernand Point

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Veal Chops Stuffed with Fontina and Porcini


Daniel Boulud's
Cafe Boulud Cookbook:
French-American Recipes
for the Home Cook
by Daniel Boulud and Dorie Greenspan, 1999, Scribner

“This looks like a steak-house special and tastes like an Italian culinary
treasure. I’ve taken thick veal chops, butterflied them so that each has
a roomy pocket, and filled the pockets generously with ingredients more
precious than many currencies: thinly sliced Prosciutto, Italian Fontina,
and meaty porcini. Hearty but refined, bold but polished, the dish is
glorious. I like it served with Braised Carrots.”

Makes 4 servings 

10 ounces fresh porcini, trimmed and cleaned
Four 10-ounce veal rib chops (bone-in)
4 slices Prosciutto, each cut in half
3 1/2 ounces Italian Fontina, cut into 8 thin slices
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
1 sprig thyme
1 shallot, peeled, trimmed, finely chopped,
rinsed, and dried
1/2 cup dry white wine

1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Slice half the porcini into 1/4-inch-thick slices and quarter the re-
maining porcini. Keep the slices and quarters separate but nearby.
3. The veal chops need to be butterflied, a job you can do easily at
home or one you can have the butcher do. Working with a long
sharp knife, cut the meaty round part of each chop in half horizontally
just to the
bone, deep enough so that you can open the chop up and stuff it.
Done right, when you open the chop the bone will run down the
center and the meat will form two circles on either side of the bone.
(It will be like a lowercase “db” monogram.) Open one chop.
Working on one side of the chop, place one eighth of the sliced
mush rooms, a piece of Prosciutto, and a slice of Fontina, then
repeat so that you’ve got two complete layers of stuffing; close
the chop. Do this for the remaining 3 chops, season them with
salt and pepper, and then tie them with kitchen twine to keep the
stuffing in place and the chops in shape.
4. Warm 1 tablespoon of the olive oil with the garlic and thyme in a
medium sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Toss in the quartered mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for 3 to
5 minutes, or until the mushrooms have released their moisture and
it has cooked down. Pull the pan from the heat and set aside. Gently
reheat the mushrooms right before serving.
5. Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large ovenproof sauté
pan or skillet (or work in two pans, each with 1 tablespoon olive oil)
over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, slip the chops into the pan
and cook to color, about 3 minutes on each side, and 1 to 2 minutes
around the edges (7 to 8 minutes total). Slide the pan into the oven to
finish the cooking, figuring on 4 minutes a side. Remove the pan from
the oven, transfer the chops to a warm plate, and keep them warm
while you make the sauce. (This resting period is important for the
chops – it will give their delicious juices a chance to settle back into
the meat.)
6.  Skim the fat off the pan juices, put the pan over low heat, and add
the shallot. Cook the shallot for 1 to 2 minutes, then add the wine
and cook until the wine reduces by half. Pour in whatever juices
may have accumulated on the plate with the chops. Taste the
sauce and season with salt and pepper if needed, then strain it.

To serve:  Place one chop on each of four heated dinner plates, spoon over
a little of the pan juices, and divide the mushrooms among the plates.

To drink:  A rich, barrel-aged Napa Valley Chardonnay, an older one if
you can find it

 
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