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La Belle Cuisine
Monsieur Henny’s Eggplant Gratin
Patricia Wells at Home
in Provence: Recipes Inspired
by Her Farmhouse in France
(James Beard Foundation Award Winner)
by Patricia Wells, 1996, Scribner
 
“One
spring weekday just before Easter, I was chatting with my butcher, Monsieur
Henny. Along with my leg of lamb, he wrapped up a container of eggplant and
tomato gratin from his traiteur, or delicatessen counter. The simple gratin
was
a revelation: He had taken baby eggplants, sliced them in half, and
placed them, cut side up, in a gratin dish. A brush of olive oil, a
sprinkling of fresh herbs, and fresh halved tomatoes, cut side down, nestled
on top of the eggplant. A long roasting in a hot oven and – voila! – a
marvelously dark, caramelized vegetable gratin full of the rich flavor of a
fine ratatouille. When the dish comes bubbling and fragrant from the oven,
even you are convinced the dish was laborious and complicated. I think of it
as my ‘slice and forget it’ gratin, for it takes no more
than three or four
minutes of preparation time. The possibilities with this dish
are endless.
I’ve added my own touch, a dusting of freshly grated Parmesan, to
provide a
bit of body and to bind the flavorful juices that flow from the tomatoes
and
the eggplant. If there is any left over, recycle by topping it with tomato
sauce, fresh herbs, and another sprinkling of cheese. The dish is best made
with tiny eggplants, weighing no more than 5 ounces (150 g). They generally
have more flavor and are less likely to be bitter.”
Four to six
servings
Equipment: One shallow 2-quart (2-l) gratin dish
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 small eggplants, each weighing about 5 ounces
(150 g)
or the
equivalent
weight in larger
eggplants,
trimmed at
stem end
Fine sea salt to taste
3 tablespoons finely minced mixed herbs,
such as rosemary, sage,
thyme,
and basil
A pinch of dried oregano
1/2 cup (2 ounce; 60 g) freshly grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
2 pounds (1 kg) fresh tomatoes,
cored and halved crosswise
1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C; gas mark 8).
2. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil over the bottom of the
gratin dish. If the eggplants are small, slice them in half lengthwise. (If
they are large,
cut them into four lengthwise slices.) Place the eggplants,
skin side
down, in a single layer in the gratin dish. Lightly score them
with a
sharp knife. Sprinkle with the salt, minced fresh herbs and oregano.
Sprinkle with about half the cheese. Place the tomato halves, cut
side down, on top of the eggplants in a single layer. Brush the tomato
skins
with the rest of the oil and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.
3. Place the gratin dish in the center of the oven and
bake until the
vegetables are soft and almost falling apart, about 1 hour.
The
tops of the tomatoes should be almost black, and the juices from
the eggplant and tomato should turn thick and almost caramelized.
Serve warm or
at room temperature,
as a side dish or main vege-
table dish. Use a spatula to
cut and serve
measured portions.
Wine
suggestion: A bright young red is ideal: Chianti, Côtes du Rhône,
a
California Zinfandel
On
Eggplant: Eggplants are tricky business because everything is hiding
beneath the protective outer skin. In selecting the best eggplants, pick
them up and test the weight: The best are firm, and heavy for their size.
Select the smallest available since large eggplants not only are less tender
but also contain larger seeds that contribute to a bitter aftertaste. (This
is
why I am opposed to salting eggplant to ‘rid them of bitterness’. If the
eggplant is fresh in the first place, it will never be bitter.) I am also of
the
‘never peel an eggplant’ school: Why discard something that’s so
beautiful
and tastes so delicious? Note that the eggplant’s porous, fat-free
flesh is
also capable of absorbing impressive quantities of oil, water, or
any liquid,
which is why I find broiling them in the oven the best way to
enjoy them
without drenching them in olive oil. The broiling helps eggplants
to release
their natural juices without drying them out. Baste the eggplants
as they
cook for added moisture and flavor.
Featured Archive Recipes:
The Elegant Eggplant
Aubergine Provençale, Gigi's
Aubergines Farcies aux Olives
Noires (Roger Vergé)
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