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The Dark Side of Nick Malgieri
A Trio of Cakes from the Author of “Chocolate”
Chocolatier December 1998
Recipes from “Chocolate’ (HarperCollins, New York, 1998),
by Nick Malgieri.
All rights reserved. Used with permission.
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“In his [then] latest book, Nick Malgieri reminisces
fondly about the first white chocolate he tasted when he was five or six years
old, about breaking apart a milk chocolate Hershey bar, square by square, when
he spent time with his grandfather
on Saturday afternoons, and about the chocolate pastry cream that filled his
grandmother’s pizza di crema. He catalogs his chocolate culinary training both
here and abroad and heaps deserved and lavish praise on his esteemed mentor
Albert Kumin, and his later inspiration, Robert Linxe. All this to explain why
he decided to write ‘Chocolate’, a comprehensive collection of chocolate
But when he comes right down to it, Malgieri wrote this book for essentially one
reason: He loves chocolate as much as anyone on the planet.
The difference between Malgieri and most other chocolate lovers is that he has
devoted his career to the culinary arts and has focused his dedication and skill
so that today he knows more about cooking and baking with chocolate than
For everyone who likes chocolate, Malgieri’s labors surely will be appreciated.
For the more fanatic chocolate lover, the book no doubt will quickly become a
dog-eared kitchen and armchair companion.
…we selected the Chocolate Raspberry Bavarian Cake, which is a rich, sensuous
creation made with chocolate génoise, semisweet chocolate filling and raspberry
Bavarian cream, topped with whipped cream and decorated with chocolate
and fresh raspberries. Malgieri traces the evolution of this cake to the
when he worked at the BoardRoom Club in New York, where at the end of
the day he
frequently had pints of fresh raspberries left over. ‘I used them up by
purees, from which I often made Bavarian cream. I also always had a
sponge cake on hand and so made a cake similar to this one.’
The light raspberry Bavarian cream is a perfect foil to the moist génoise layers
and thin layers of chocolate filling. Serve this for a very special occasion –
especially since it can be made entirely in advance and just finished off on
Malgieri advises anyone attempting this cake to plan at least three and
preferably four days ahead. He suggests making the cake and raspberry
day one, the chocolate filling and raspberry Bavarian on day
two, assembling the
cake on day three, and serving it on day four…”
Chocolate Raspberry Bavarian Cake
10-inch cake, about 12 servings
1/3 cup cake flour
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup unsweetened alkalized
3 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
1/4 cup raspberry liqueur
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
4 ounces semisweet chocolate,
cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter
Two 10-ounce packages frozen raspberries
3/4 cup sugar
1/3 cup raspberry liqueur
1 1/2 envelopes unflavored gelatin powder
2 cups heavy whipping cream
1 cup heavy whipping cream
One 1/2-pint basket raspberries
One 10-inch springform pan
1. Set a rack
in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. Butter the bottom and
sides of a 9-inch round cake pan. Line the bottom of the
pan with a round of parchment or waxed paper.
2. Sift together the cake flour, cornstarch and cocoa through a fine-meshed
strainer over a piece of waxed paper to break up any small lumps in the
cocoa. Set the sifted ingredients aside.
3. Whisk together the eggs, yolks, sugar and salt in the bowl of an electric
mixer. Place the bowl over a pan of simmering water and continue whisking gently
until the mixture is lukewarm, about 100 degrees F. This should take only a
minute or two.
4. Whip with the electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is cooled
increased in volume, about 3 to 4 minutes.
5. Remove bowl from mixer and sift in dry ingredients, in three additions,
gently folding each third in with a rubber spatula. Pour the batter into the
prepared pan and spread the top even with a spatula.
6. Bake the layer about 30 minutes, until it is well risen and the center is
firm to the touch.
7. If necessary, loosen the layer from the side of the pan with a small knife
spatula and invert the cake onto a rack. Place another rack on the cake
invert again. Remove the top rack, so that the layer cools right side
on the paper.
8. For the syrup, combine the sugar and water, bring to a boil and cool.
9. For the chocolate filling, bring the cream to a boil. Remove from the
add the chocolate, and allow to stand 2 minutes. Whisk in butter
10. To make the Bavarian, combine the raspberries and sugar in a sauce-
to a boil and simmer 10 minutes. Use a food mill or a fine
strain away seeds. Cool. Combine the liqueur and
gelatin in a
bowl and soak 5 minutes. Place bowl over
make liquid again, then whisk into cooled purée.
and fold it in.
11. Slice génoise into two layers and place one in the bottom of a 10-inch
springform pan. Moisten with half the syrup. Whip cooled chocolate filling
lighten and spread half of it over cake layer; pour on half the Bavarian.
with remaining cake layer, syrup, chocolate filling and Bavarian.
Chill to set.
12. To unmold, run a small knife between dessert and mold and lift off
pan. Whip the cream and spread over sides of dessert. Press
some of the
chocolate shavings into cream. Arrange raspberries on
top in two concentric
circles around the top rim, then sprinkle center
with shavings and
Vermont Farmhouse Devil's Food Cake
Payard's Chocolate-Raspberry Cake
Chocolate Raspberry Dobostorte
Chocolate Raspberry Torte
English Chocolate Trifle
with Apricots and Raspberries
Index - Chocolate Recipe
Index - Cake Recipe
Miscellaneous Dessert Recipes
Recipe Archives Index