Alphonse Mucha - Chocolate Amatller Barcelona Centenario
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Bittersweet Chocolate Roulade





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Chocolate Amatller Barcelona 1899
Chocolate Amatller Barcelona 1899
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 Cook's Illustrated






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Bittersweet Chocolate Roulade
By Kay Rentschler
Cook’s Illustrated, November & December 2000

Cooks Illustrated
Cooks Illustrated

2000, Boston Common Press

“We created a cake that is easy to roll but still moist,
tender, and full of chocolate flavor.”

“Objects that sweep and spiral inward enchant the eye. I think of seashells,
chignons, sweet rolls – each demure and voluptuous at the same time. Equally
if not more appealing are spirals of sponge cake rolled around a creamy filling.
A chocolate sponge cake roll – or roulade – is doubtless the most satisfying and versatile of this genre, its tender bittersweet shell home to a full spectrum of
fillings, from pale creams to rich, dark mousses.”

Serves 8 to 10

“We suggest that you make the filling and ganache first, then make the cake
while the ganache is setting up. Or, if you prefer, the cake can be baked,
filled, and rolled – but not iced – then wrapped in plastic and refrigerated
for up to 24 hours.” [Directions on how to create the ‘branched’ look of
a bŻche de NoŽl are contained in Cook’s Illustrated 2000.]

6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped fine
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into two pieces
2 tablespoons cold water
1/4 cup cocoa, sifted, plus 1 tablespoon for unmolding
1/4 cup (about 1 1/4 ounces) all-purpose flour,
plus more for baking sheet
1/8 teaspoon salt
6 large eggs, separated
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 recipe Espresso-Mascarpone Cream (recipe follows)
1 recipe Dark Chocolate Ganache (recipe follows)

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees
[F]. Spray 12 by 17 1/2-inch jelly roll or half sheet pan with nonstick
cooking spray, cover pan bottom with parchment paper, and spray
parchment with nonstick cooking spray; dust surface with flour and
tap out excess.
2. Bring 2 inches water to simmer in small saucepan over medium heat. Combine chocolate, butter, and water in small heatproof bowl and cover
tightly with plastic wrap. Set bowl over pan, reduce heat to medium-low,
and heat until butter is almost completely melted and chocolate pieces are glossy, have lost definition, and are fully melted around the edges, about
15 minutes. (Do not stir or let water boil under chocolate.) Remove bowl
from pan, unwrap, and stir until smooth and glossy. While chocolate is
melting, sift 1/4 cup cocoa, flour, and salt together into small bowl and
set aside.
3. In bowl of standing mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat yolks at medium-high speed until just combined, about 15 seconds. With mixer
running, add half the sugar. Continue to beat, scraping down sides of
bowl as necessary until yolks are pale yellow and mixture falls in thick
ribbon when whisk is lifted, about 8 minutes. Add vanilla and beat to
combine, scraping down bowl once, about 30 seconds. Turn mixture
into medium bowl; wash mixer bowl and whisk attachment and dry
with paper towels. (If you have 2 mixer bowls, leave yolk mixture in
mixer bowl; wash and dry whisk attachment, and use second bowl
in step 4.)
4. In clean bowl with clean whisk attachment, beat whites and cream of
tartar at medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds. With mixer
running, add about 1 teaspoon sugar; continue beating until soft peaks
form, about 40 seconds. Gradually add remaining sugar and beat until
whites are glossy and supple and hold stiff peaks when whisk is lifted,
about 1 minute longer. Do not overbeat (if whites look dry and granular
they are overbeaten). While whites are beating, stir chocolate into yolks.
With rubber spatula, stir one quarter of whites into chocolate mixture to
lighten it. With a balloon whisk, fold in remaining whites until almost no
streaks remain. Sprinkle dry ingredients over top and fold in quickly but
gently with balloon whisk.
5. Pour batter into prepared pan; using an offset icing spatula and working quickly, even surface and smooth batter into pan corners. Bake until
center of cake springs back when touched with finger, 8 to 10 minutes,
rotating pan halfway through baking. Cool in pan on wire rack for
5 minutes.
6. While cake is cooling, lay clean kitchen towel over work surface and
sift remaining tablespoon cocoa over towel; with hands, rub cocoa into
towel. Run paring knife around perimeter of baking sheet to loosen
cake. Invert cake onto towel and peel off parchment.
[Roll and fill cake as follows; Cook’s Illustrated 200 contains illustrations]:
7. Roll cake – towel and all – into a jelly roll shape. Cool for 15 minutes,
then unroll cake and towel. Using an offset spatula, immediately spread
the filling evenly over the surface of the cake, almost to the edges. Roll
the cake up gently but snugly around the filling. Set a large sheet of
parchment paper on an overturned rimmed baking sheet and set cake
seam-side down on top.
[Trim and ice cake as follows; Cook’s Illustrated 200 contains illustrations]:
Trim both ends on the diagonal. Reserve the slices if making a yule log.
Spread the ganache over the roulade with a small icing spatula. Use a fork
to make wood-grain striations on the surface of the ganache before the
icing has set [or swirl as desired].
Refrigerate baking sheet with cake,
uncovered, to slightly set icing, about 20 minutes.

8. Carefully slide 2 wide metal spatulas under cake and transfer to
serving platter. Cut into slices and serve.

Espresso-Mascarpone Cream

Makes about 1 1/4 cups

1/4 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons whole espresso beans, finely ground
(about 1 tablespoon ground)
3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
8 1/4 ounces mascarpone cheese (generous 1 cup)

Bring cream to simmer in small saucepan over high heat. Off heat, stir in espresso and powdered sugar; transfer mixture to medium bowl and cool slightly. Whisk in mascarpone until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

Dark Chocolate Ganache

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

“Rose Levy Beranbaum, author of The Cake Bible (William Morrow, 1988), acquainted us with the technique of making ganache in a food processor, a
method that beats all others, in our opinion, for ease and consistency. If your
kitchen is cool and the ganache becomes too cold and stiff to spread, set the
bowl over a saucepan containing simmering water, then stir briefly until
smooth and icinglike.”

1/4 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 ounces high-quality semisweet or
bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 tablespoon Cognac

Microwave cream and butter in measuring cup on high until bubbling,
about 1 1/2 minutes. (Alternatively, bring to simmer in small saucepan
over medium-high heat.) Place chocolate in bowl of food processor fitted
with steel blade. With machine running, gradually add hot cream and
Cognac through feed tube and process until thickened, about 3 minutes. Transfer ganache to medium bowl and let stand at room temperature 1
hour, until spreadable (ganache should have consistency of soft icing).

Featured Archive Recipes:
BŻche de NoŽl

BŻche de NoŽl, Chocolate-Orange


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