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Sexy Feast

 

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Sexy Feast
The New York Times, February 2002
by Jason Epstein

“Strip away the trimmings and you will find that the essential structure of
all living things, from the dainty amoeba to the boisterous elephant, from
the stately elm to Donald Rumsfeld, is an alimentary system supporting a
reproductive system.
Why or even how this of all possible arrangements should exist defies ordinary
human understanding. But it is plain to see that in the great game of survival
every living thing must eat in order to replicate itself and so sustain the pre-
carious grip of its species on its place in nature. What strong desires impel this
behavior among the lesser sentient creatures we can only imagine. We may
assume, however, that these other living things, unlike ourselves, rely upon
instinct to moderate their hunger and lust, for unregulated desire means con-
flict and eventual extinction. But for us, when we encounter a pretty face or
fowl, the moderating instinct is not nearly as dependable, if dependable at all.
Hence our collective willingness, older than recorded time, to rely upon priests,
magistrates and sacred texts to govern our appetites: a survival strategy embedded
in our laws and rituals and known as civilization, a strategy that our fellow
creatures, governed by instinct, can forgo.
Of the modern holidays erected upon the relics of ancient rites, by which we still celebrate the rebirth of the sun at the winter solstice; spare the gravid ewes when
we say farewell to meat at carne vale; rejoice in the resurrection of the fields at
Easter; and tremble at nature's deathlike sleep in autumn, the celebration of eros
occurs in mid-February, when, according to Geoffrey Chaucer, ''[it] was on seynt
Volantynys day Whan euery byrd comyth there to chese his make,'' instinct telling
them that the lengthening days will soon be mild enough to sustain new life,
hence the chicks and bunnies of our own Easter holiday.
On the mid-February day on which we honor St. Valentine, the Romans cele-
brated the festival of Lupercus, honoring the she-wolf that suckled Romulus
and Remus. On that day naked priests, their brows painted with goat's blood,
danced on the Palatine Hill, uttering peals of ritual laughter as they scourged
the women passing by with whips made from the hair of sacrificial goats. The
idea was to induce pregnancy. This fertility ritual probably originated in a much
more ancient February frolic in emulation of the coupling of birds and rabbits as
longer days announced the coming spring, a time when villagers paired off their
flocks and presumably themselves in anticipation of green pastures and bubbling
streams. Thereafter the primal mating ritual devolved into the odd behavior atop
the Palatine until by the 1820's the London post office was hiring extra sorters
to handle the Valentine's Day traffic in pasteboard love notes, the blanched relic
of our ancestors' jolly day of random copulation. Further devolution leading to
today's chocolate boxes in the shape of inverted bottoms has not however robbed
the mid-February ceremony of all its primal energy. Valentine's Day (named if
not by phonetic decay for the Palatine priests, then for the zealous saint who in
the third century is said to have arranged secret marriages for Roman soldiers
after the emperor, Claudius II, is said to have forbidden wedlock as an unwarlike
distraction) still conveys a giggling air of carnality and the uncertain promise
of raffish coupling.
However you celebrate the day, the reproductive function, whether activated or
not, must be sustained, and if possible stimulated, by a meal, preferably supper.
I do not believe in the effect of alleged aphrodisiacs like vintage Champagne
and caviar, whose erotic charge if any derives only from the evaluation of the
beloved suggested by their cost.
The thousands of oysters that I have eaten since my childhood days on Cape
Cod have not once inflamed me even mildly, but a Valentine's Day late supper of
gently fried oysters, scrambled eggs and bay scallops will sustain the reproductive
system for future, if not immediate, use. For good measure I have added a recipe
for clams casino.”
 

Fried Oysters

Yield: 2 servings.

1 dozen bluepoint or similar oysters, shucked
(unless you've shucked oysters before
and have a good oyster knife, ask your
fish market to shuck them for you; do not
use bottled oysters, which may taste tinny)
1 cup yellow cornmeal, preferably Indian Head or Quaker
Salt, freshly ground white pepper and cayenne to taste
4 cups vegetable oil (do not use olive oil)
1 cup Hellmann's mayonnaise
1/2 bunch of chives, snipped into 1/8-inch pieces
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Romaine, cut into 1-inch ''canoes,'' well chilled.

1. Drain the oysters. Spread the cornmeal evenly on a paper towel. Add
the salt, pepper and cayenne to taste. Dredge the oysters one at a
time, placing each dredged oyster in a colander. Shake off the
excess cornmeal.
2. Heat oil in a cast-iron skillet or other deep skillet over medium-high
heat until it reaches 350 degrees F. You can also check by sprinkling
some of the cornmeal in the pan and seeing if it spins and dances in
the oil.
3. Meanwhile, mix the mayonnaise, chives and lemon juice until smooth
in a small bowl. Arrange the lettuce ''canoes'' on a large serving platter
and top each with a dollop of chive mayonnaise. Set aside in the
refrigerator.
4. Test the oil by gently dropping (or lower in with a slotted spoon) an
oyster into it. If it bubbles and rises to the top, add 3 or 4 more
oysters. If not, remove the oyster, wait and try again. If you add
too many oysters at once, you will lower the temperature of the
oil, and the oysters will neither brown nor become crisp. Remove
the light brown oysters with a slotted spoon or tongs to paper
towels to drain.
5. To serve, arrange a fried oyster on top of mayonnaise on the
Romaine canoes. Serve immediately.

 

Scrambled Eggs with
Bay Scallops and Bacon

Yield: 2 servings.

4 slices of lean bacon
6 fresh large eggs
4 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons heavy cream or half-and-half
or milk according to your conscience
Chopped fresh Italian parsley, tarragon
or chives to taste
8 ounces very fresh bay scallops
4 slices brioche, lightly toasted.

1. Broil or fry the bacon over medium heat so that when the slices are
done they lie flat. Drain on paper-towel-covered plate and set aside
in a warm oven.
2. Break the eggs into a colander, over the top of a double boiler or heat-
safe bowl and beat gently using a whisk or a wooden spoon to push
the eggs through. Add one tablespoon of butter and the salt and
pepper to taste.
3. Cook the eggs in the double boiler or place bowl over pan of simmering water over medium heat, whisking constantly, taking care to scrape the
sides of the pot where the eggs will first coagulate. When the eggs begin
to thicken, add the cream, half-and-half or milk. You may add a raw
egg yolk at this time.
4. Remove eggs from the heat when they have formed small, bright
yellow curds. You may add some flat parsley, freshly snipped
tarragon or chives to the eggs.
5. Meanwhile pat the scallops dry with a paper towel and melt the re-
maining butter over medium-high heat in a 10-inch nonstick pan.
When the butter bubbles but before it darkens and begins to smoke,
add the scallops in one layer. Cook until they turn brown, about 3
minutes. Turn and cook until browned on all sides, about 2 more
minutes. Remove scallops with a slotted spoon and drain on
paper towels.
6. To serve, pile the eggs at one end of a warmed oval platter and the
scallops at the other. Separate the eggs and scallops with a bacon
fence.
7. Serve with toasted brioche and chilled prosecco.

NOTE: For celebrators who skipped supper, this dish is equally good at
breakfast, in which case combine fresh orange juice with prosecco and
serve a small pot of pepper jelly with the eggs and scallops.

 

Clams Casino

Yield: 2 servings.

3 strips bacon
1 small green bell pepper
1 small red bell pepper
1/2 sweet onion
1 jalapeno
2 tablespoons butter, softened
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 dozen small cherrystone or large
littleneck (i.e. topneck) clams.

1. Cut each bacon strip into 4 pieces and lightly fry in a pan over medium heat. (You don't want the bacon to become crispy since it is going to
go into the broiler later.) Remove and set aside half-cooked bacon.
2. Chop the peppers and the onion into a medium dice. Chop the jalapeno finely, discarding seeds. It's a good idea to wash your hands afterward.
3. Add the peppers, the onion and the jalapeno to the softened butter.
4. Add the Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice to taste.
5. Add a generous pinch of the vegetable mixture to each of the opened
clams on its half shell. Place a piece of the cooked bacon on top of
the mixture on each clam.
6. Place the clams under the broiler and let cook until the vegetables begin
to wilt and the bacon is almost crisp, around 3 minutes.
Serve immediately.

Copyright 2002 The New York Times Company. Used with permission.
 

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