Sports d'Hiver dans les Vosges
Sports d'Hiver dans les Vosges
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Broders, Roger
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La Belle Cuisine - More Soup Recipes

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"To cook is to create. And to create well...
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Michele's Potage d'Hiver




“A home is a place where a pot of fresh soup simmers gently
on the hob, filling the kitchen with soft aromas… and filling
your heart, and later your tummy, with joy.”

~ Keith Floyd

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Hiver, 1900
Hiver, 1900
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Mucha, Alphonse
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“If you do not use good stock, you should not
be allowed to eat.”

~ Pat Conroy Cookbook

Pat Conroy
Recipes of My Life

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Hiver sur la Seine, Lavacourt
Hiver sur la Seine, Lavacourt
Claude Monet
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La Belle Cuisine


Michele's Potage d'Hiver

(Thanks to Julia Child for her
education and inspiration)

3 slices thick-sliced bacon, chopped
White and pale green parts of 1 large leek chopped,
washed thoroughly, and patted dry (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/4 cup (or more) dry white wine
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock or broth
1 small cabbage (1 1/2 to 2 pounds), cored
and shredded or chopped fine
2 to 3 cups peeled, coarsely chopped
baking potatoes
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 small celery root, peeled, quartered

Bouquet garni of parsley, 1 bay leaf, and
8 peppercorns, crushed
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 cup half-and-half
Optional extras: 1 teaspoon sugar and
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

A note about seasoning the soup: We hope you will be able to do
yourself the favor of using a good-quality stock rather than canned
broth or bouillon cubes. One tremendous advantage, in my opinion,
is that when you make your own stock, you know exactly what's in
it. This is great not only from a health point of view, but also when considering what seasoning to use. If, for example, your stock was
made in the traditional way with a bouquet garni including bay leaf,
thyme, parsley springs and possibly garlic or whole cloves, you would
need to adjust the seasoning of the soup accordingly, depending on
the flavor of the stock.
If you find it necessary to use canned broth or bouillon, there's a very
quick and easy way to compensate. Simply heat the broth and simmer
it with finely diced carrot, celery and onion or leek, adding a bouquet
garni and wine or dry white vermouth.
In a large, heavy kettle cook the bacon over moderate heat until fat has
been rendered. Pour off excess fat and refrigerate it for another use or discard it (although it would be a shame to waste it!) Add the leek and
cook, stirring until slightly softened. Deglaze the kettle by slowly adding
the wine and scraping any brown bits from the bottom of the kettle.
Add the stock or broth to kettle and stir in cabbage, potatoes, carrots
and celery root. Bring mixture to boil and add bouquet garni, thyme
and marjoram. Reduce heat and simmer the soup, partially covered,
until the vegetables are tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
In a blender or food processor purée the soup in batches until it is
smooth; return it to the kettle. Stir in the half-and-half and simmer
the soup over very low heat, watching it carefully and stirring occa-
sionally, about 15 minutes. Correct the seasoning as necessary. If
desired, you may add the sugar and unsalted butter, in the French
tradition, which will enrich the soup, increasing the smoothness
and enhance the overall flavor.
Serves 4 to 6.

Please do not allow yourself to be limited by the vegetables
we have chosen for this soup. One of the benefits of vegetable soup is
that you can really let your creative juices flow.
The idea for this soup is that of winter vegetables; keeping that in mind,
we have included only vegetables which would be readily available at
our local market in winter.
Heaven forbid we should scare any vegetable-haters away by starting off with rutabagas, turnips or kohlrabi, but any of them would be an excellent choice. Celeriac (celery root) is a delicious winter vegetable, and I regret
that it is not more readily available in the United States. In the open-air markets in Germany, and perhaps even in the ever-increasing number of
supermarkets, one is able to buy what is called fresh Suppengrün. This
is a small bundle of vegetables that every grocer worth his salt knows a
German housewife will want to include in her soup kettle: celery root,
parsley, leek, and a carrot or two are the primary ingredients, with
more variety offered in the spring and summer months.
In case you have difficulty locating fresh celeriac (celery root) in your
area, simply substitute celery, being sure to include some of the very flavorful leaves.
If you are serious about keeping your diet as low in fat (especially animal
fat) as reasonably possible, then simply eliminate the bacon. In that case
it will be even more important that you use a very flavorful homemade
stock rather than canned broth or cubes. The soup then becomes a very
healthy version, as it contains no roux, egg yolks or beurre manié as a
thickening agent. The purée itself will be thick, and you can adjust the
thickness to suit your own taste, thinning it down with more stock, or
thickening it with a tablespoon or so of arrowroot mixed with an equal
amount of water.
Another excellent way to make this soup both healthy and flavorful is
to sprinkle the vegetables lightly with good-quality olive oil, salt, freshly-
ground pepper and herbs and then roast them 20 to 30 minutes at 500 degrees F. Then add them to the stock and purée the mixture. This will impart a subtle earthy, slightly smoky taste to the vegetables and
enhance their inherent flavor.

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