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Crisp Paupiettes of Bass in Barolo Sauce

"Fish, to taste right, must swim three times -
in water, in butter, and in wine."
~ Polish Proverb

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Crisp Paupiettes of Sea Bass in Barolo Sauce


Food and Wine 2000:
An Entire Year's Recipes from
America's Favorite Food Magazine
Food & Wine Books, Editor in Chief Judith Hill, 2000, American Express Publishing Corp.

4 servings

Four 4-ounce skinless sea bass fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon chopped thyme, plus 4 small sprigs for garnish
2 very large baking potatoes
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1 melted
3 large leeks, white part only, thinly sliced
Barolo Sauce (recipe follows)
1 tablespoon minced chives

1. Trim each of the sea bass fillets into a 5-by-1 1/2-inch rectangle. Season with salt, pepper and the thyme.
2. Using a knife, slice each potato lengthwise to remove the rounded portions and make a block shape; do not cut off the tips of the potatoes, but do peel them. Using a mandoline, slice the potatoes lengthwise into very thin slices. Brush the slices on both sides with the melted butter and season with salt.
3. For each paupiette, on a 10-inch sheet of wax paper, arrange 8 slightly overlapping potato slices to form a 5-inch wide rectangle. Center a fish fillet horizontally in the rectangle and wrap the potatoes over and around the fillet to enclose it completely. Use the wax paper to help seal the potato wrap around the fish; remove the paper. Repeat to form the remaining paupiettes. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours.
4. In a medium skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderate heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
5. In a large nonstick skillet, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over moderately high heat. Add the paupiettes and cook until the potatoes are tender and golden, turning once with a large spatula, 8 to 10 minutes per side.
6. Spoon the leeks onto 4 warmed serving plates and ladle the Barolo Sauce around them. Set the paupiettes on the leeks and top each one with a thyme sprig. Garnish with the chives and serve.

Makes about 1/2 cup

1 tablespoon oil
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1/2 cup sliced white mushroom caps
1 small thyme sprig
1 cup chicken stock or clam juice
1 bottle (750 ml) Barolo or other full-bodied dry red wine
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1 stick (4 ounces) cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
Pinch of sugar
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan. Add the shallots, mushrooms and thyme and cook over high heat for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the stock and boil until the mushrooms are almost dry. Stir in the wine and boil until reduced to 2 tablespoons, about 30 minutes. Stir in the cream and bring to a boil over low heat. Whisk in the butter and sugar and season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids, and
keep warm.
- Daniel Boulud