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Tendrons de Veau Le Caméléon
(Braised Veal with Fresh Pasta)
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“Standing there I wondered how much of what we felt on the bridge
was just hunger. I asked my wife and she said, ‘I don’t know, Tatie.
There are so many kinds of hunger… memory is hunger.’ “

~ Ernest Hemingway, outside the restaurant Michaud

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La Belle Cuisine


Tendrons de Veau Le Caméléon
(Braised Veal with Fresh Pasta)

Bistro Cooking
by Patricia Wells, 1989,
Workman Publishing Co., Inc.


“In France, one of the most popular cuts of veal for stewing is ‘tendron’,
the portion of the breast that contains the cartilaginous rib-like portions
that visibly resemble pork spare ribs when cooked. For this recipe, you
can choose from any number of good cuts of stewing veal, including the
breast (known in France as ‘poitrine’ or ‘tendron’), the short ribs (‘haut de
côtes’), veal shoulder and shoulder chops (‘épaule’ or ‘côtes découvertes’),
and the heel of round or shank (‘gîte a la noix’ or ‘jarret’). This is one of
my favorite bistro dishes (both to prepare and to eat!) and I order it often
when I go to the popular Paris bistro Le Caméléon. With it, I usually
drink the fruity red Saumur-Champigny from the Loire.”

2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 pounds (1 kg) breast of veal with the bone
(ask your butcher to cut across the lower breast
portion to make several strips of equal width)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (25 cl) dry white wine
4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into rounds
2 medium onions, cut into rings
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 imported bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 large can (28 ounces; 794 g) Italian plum
tomatoes, with their liquid
1 pound (500 g) fresh fettuccine (obviously you
can use dried pasta here, just don’t expect the
result to be quite the same)
Small handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

1. Heat the oil in a nonreactive, deep-sided, 12-inch (30 cm) skillet
over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, begin to brown the
veal in batches on both sides; do not crowd the pan. Be patient
when browning; good browning is essential for the veal to retain
all of its flavor. The meat should take about 5 minutes to brown
each batch. Carefully regulate the heat to avoid scorching the
meat. As each batch is browned, remove the veal to a platter
and season generously with salt and pepper.
2. When all of the veal is browned, pour out the fat from the skillet.
Return all of the meat to the pan. Add the wine, carrots, onions,
garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and tomatoes. Bring to a boil over high
heat. Reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer until the meat is
very tender and the liquid is transformed into a thick, delicious
 sauce, about 1 1/2 hours. Keep an eye on the pan, making sure
the liquid remains at a quiet, gentle simmer.
3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt the
water, add the pasta, and cook just until tender. Drain. Place
the pasta on a large, warmed serving platter.
4. Using a flat metal strainer, remove the veal from the pan; place
on top of the pasta. Strain the sauce through a sieve. Pour the
sauce over the veal. Sprinkle on the parsley. Serve immediately,
on warmed dinner plates. Yield: 6 to 8 servings.

Featured Archive Recipes:
Blanquette de Veau
Braised Veal Shanks with Tomato,
White Beans, and Basil

Rosemary Braised Veal Shanks

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